When we checked in the day before, our host asked us what time we’d like to have breakfast (as opposed to telling us, “breakfast is served from such-and-such a time to such-and-such a time). It became clear why this morning: as best we can tell, there is only one other family staying in the hotel. For those searching for a relaxing place to stay in Greece during the summertime, you’d be hard-pressed to beat Arachova and surrounding towns. It was far cooler than Athens (I’d estimate by 10º F), and the town could serve as a “base station” for nearby attractions (not to mention the 45 minute drive to a nearby beach, which is supposed to be far less crowded than others we visited).

The chef in the restaurant put out an extravagant spread, and Max and I did our best to honor her hospitably. In addition to the usual Greek yogurt and jelly/honey (YUM!), croissants, eggs and European bacon, she made us a vegetable and cheese frittata, which Max and I felt compelled to devour. We topped off our breakfast with a small sample of the syrup-drenched French toast and platter of pancakes, which had been artfully smothered in Nutella, caramel, chocolate and bananas. Yes, it was a Herculean feat, but we were unwilling to allow the culinary pressures of Greece break us. We battled the Hydra of victuals and prevailed. 

It was a brief journey to the Monastery of Saint Lucas (Hosios Loukas), founded in the 10th C by the hermit, Venerable Luke of Steiris. His ability to heal and work miracles drew pilgrims to the site, which grew over time to accommodate a community of monks (so much for the hermit’s life!) The entire compound is an exceptional example of Byzantine architecture and art. We meandered unhurriedly around the museum and grounds. Both the cool, mountain setting, and the dearth of tourists made for a peaceful morning. For the first time during the trip, I was able to taste something of the quiet solitude of monastic life. BEAUTIFUL! 

During our visit, several infants were baptized. We could hear the chanting of the priest and shrieks of the babies issuing forth from the smaller of the two churches on the grounds. What a privilege to listen in as new members of the Christian family are welcomed! On our way out, we could see the makings of a family celebration to mark the event which had just taken place.

We departed for lunch and were served, in Greek style, a copious feast of savory, sleep-inducing delights. After lunch, we continued on to the delightful town of Livadeia, built around a sizable mountain stream which flows through the center of town. The stream has been diverted into a complex system of waterfalls and waterwheels, traversed by arched stone bridges along the way. There are also remnants of a formidable medieval castle that stoke the imagination.  

From there, we continued back down to Athens and checked into our hotel. I went for a jog in the fitness center and made it an early night.